Bagan Myanmar
Bagan was on my bucket list for a long time even though I had no idea where it was… I had seen photographs and thought 1 – one day I will find out where that is and 2 – will go there!
When I decided on a side trip to Myanmar, my research revealed the location of the photographs I had fallen in love with years ago – it was Bagan! Now I was excited, I couldn’t wait and even giggled when we were coming into land (I know, even this hardened traveler can still get excited…).
I hired an E Bike as soon as I got to the hotel. My petrolhead friends, will be disgusted but I loved this almost silent way to get around.
The first day I spent about 8 hours exploring the 2000 plus ancient temples and Pagodas, quite a few were damaged in the recent earthquake and were being repaired. To get to the top of them and the views you have to climb hectically steep steps on the outside or impossible narrow and claustrophobic ones on the inside (some filled with bats). I finished this day sitting on top of a temple watching the sun go down – I know, your thinking shame…
Up at 5 the next morning to watch the sunrise and the hot air balloons floating across the tops of the temples, this is where I wished I knew how to use a real camera and not just my iphone, it is a photographers dream (to see proper photos – google Bagan!)
I again, spent the rest of the day exploring on my E Bike (I love this bike). The roads are all gravel and wide to the main temples and easy enough to ride the bike on, but me being me, I decided to head off on my own paths and explore the little temples. To be honest, within five minutes I lost any paths more than a foot wide not overgrown and blanketed in cobwebs and big spiders. Once or twice the washed out tracks of the DRC came to mind (Princess was a lot easier to drive). My complete lack of skill off roading on a motorbike (even a silent one) left a lot to be desired. I did improve throughout the day but only after falling off twice and taking a while to wiggle out from underneath my bike (bikes are heavy when they are on top of you – luckily, I have a sense of humor but took longer to get out because I was laughing so much!) For me not to be black and blue at the end of a holiday would feel like something was missing!
After another 10 hours on the bike and a sore backside, I decided to watch the sunset from a boat on the river. After a bit of bargaining, with the boat guy who came in lower than the price I suggested – I don’t think he has mastered the art of the haggling yet… I had a boat able to take 30 people to myself and had the most serene lovely sunset – I was loving life and looked down into the water and heart appeared in the ripples – I love the universe…!
For those that want a bit more history on Bagan this part is for you!
Bagan (formerly known as Pagan) was the capital of the Kingdom of Pagan the Kingdom was the first to unify the area that is now Myanmar. From the 9th to the 13th centuries, over 10,000 temples were built on the plains surrounding the capital next to the Irrawaddy River.
After Mongol invasions eventually led to the fall of the Kingdom of Pagan, the city was reduced to a small settlement, never to recover its former glories. The area did, however, remain a destination for Buddhist pilgrimage. A few hundred temples were added between the 13th and 20th centuries, but the huge amount of earthquake damage over the years means that only 2200 temples remain, in varying states of repair – Otter note – very happy to have not been on or in one when the earthquakes hit!!
