BOSNIA
When I first entered Bosnia, I started seeing derelict buildings – but they didn’t look right, buildings don’t decay like that. It was only after I started seeing houses with holes in them that my slow brain caught up!! This was war damage! I had read that it was noticeable in Bosnia I just hadn’t realized how much!
It seemed like every other building, was damaged in some way, mostly with bullet holes. It was the first time I had been in a country that reminders of war were still a very real part of every day life and not just a display in a museum or at a “tourist attraction”.
I visited the war museums in Sarajevo in tears and realized that I had driven through some of the areas of the genocide and where some heavy battles took place.
Seeing photos of how this beautiful country was ravaged by war, how much has been rebuilt and how much still needs to be done has left a horror and a deep sadness inside me. Every one of the thousands of bullet holes still visible next to a flower pot, a kids bike or freshly washed clothes on a line is a sharp reminder to someone like me – who has no idea!!!
Sarajevo, these days is a vibrant place lots of bars and restaurants and international stores. Except for the holes in the walls a normal Capital.
I met some Bosnian guys in an Old town cafe celebrating becoming doctors. They asked me to join their table as they were very impressed and happy I was visiting their country – let’s just say we got very loud…
After Sarajevo I decided to drive to the highest most remote village in Bosnia – Lukomir
The drive turned into a bit of adventure as I got lost – gps on my phone decided it needed a holiday…
I went the long, wrong way!
I had read the road was not good but manageable. At times, still thinking I was on the right road – I thought what the hell!!! How could anyone in their right mind think this road was ok for a regular car!!! I eventually found a farmer and asked directions, he gave me a funny look and pointed up and drew me a little map. I took the look for being a girl on my own in the middle of nowhere… NO, it was because the road was very narrow, rocky, huge holes, steep, rutted and very unpleasant – there was a couple of times I thought Rollo wouldn’t make it… I couldn’t have turned around if I wanted to! Anyway, I eventually joined up with the RIGHT road and made it to Lukomir – very primitive, only inhabited in summer and very beautiful – so glad I made it…
I took the right road down – what a breez…!
The drive to Mostar through the countryside is spectacular, mountains, rivers, lakes just amazing, every turn gets better.
Mostar was also heavily damaged in the war but with the help of foreign donors locals homes, the Old Town and some key sights were rebuilt – the famous curved bridge (Stari Most) is now a World Heritage site.
While sitting at a quiet cafe on the water, the waiter and I started to chat, he has lived here all his life and was telling me what it was like during the war and after – it was one of my most interesting nights!
On my way to Croatia a quick stop at Medjugorje a Catholic Pilgrimage site and Kravica Falls, gloriously full, crystal clear a stunning way to say goodbye to Bosnia.
