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BOSNIA
When I first entered Bosnia, I started seeing derelict buildings – but they didn’t look right, buildings don’t decay like that. It was only after I started seeing houses with holes in them that my slow brain caught up!! This was war damage! I had read that it was noticeable in Bosnia I just hadn’t realized how much! It seemed like every other building, was damaged in some way, mostly with bullet holes. It was the first time I had been in a country that reminders of war were still a very real part of every day life and not just a display in a museum or at a “tourist…
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SERBIA
Serbia wasn’t on my radar this year until… I was working out my route into Bosnia /Herzegovina. I never take the quickest routes (boring) I like to take the more scenic routes. So, while checking out the roads I come across a photo of a scenic viewpoint in the Tara National Park, Serbia (I looked a little farther than necessary…) it was stunning – I had to go!!! It was only 5.5hrs drive – well by the end of the day that had turned into 11! The drive there was truly stunning, steep mountain passes through Bosnia (had to cross it first) with at least 40 tunnels cutting through the…
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MONTENEGRO
One of my other bucket list destinations was Montenegro. I crossed late over the border from Albania into Montenegro and headed for the town of Ulcinj. It was dark when I arrived and chose a place up in the old city to stay. Up early to check out the sights – which were ok, nothing that spoke to me, so decided to head to Kotor via the other beaches in Montenegro. Again, I was a little underwhelmed with the beaches in Montenegro – but living in Cape Town I am a spoiled brat when it comes to beaches…! Montenegro became king when I hit Boka Bay and the old city…
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LAKE KOMANI, ALBANIA
Rruga Kole Idromeno Skhoder is the jumping off town for Lake Komani and the famous, spectacular Komani ferry ride. Skhoder is small town, with very few people in Spring, not sure what it gets like in summer. There are plenty of restaurants and bars to choose from especially on the pedestrian walkway Rruga Kole Idromeno. It really won’t take you long to explore the town on foot, and once you have, there isn’t a lot else to do. Skhoder also seemed to have plenty of accommodation available in most price brackets. I decided to stay in Hotel Tradita which is in a museum (a first for me!) the hotel was just…
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Berat, Albania
I first “saw” Albania when I was 17, sitting on a beach in Corfu. We were told, under no circumstances to kayak or swim over there as you will be arrested and might not be released – mmmm ok….! A few years later…?I find myself in Albania – cool!!! I arranged a driver from Ohrid to bring me to the airport in Tirana to get a car. No way I was being without one now! The first hire company, had a car, for half the price of Macedonia and I could drop it off in the North, and I was told if I crash the car no problem – perfect……
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Lake Ohrid, Macedonia
After Peja, I headed to Macedonia’s Lake Ohrid. The road (a little detour) took me winding through Mavrovo NP. Wow, this place is SO beautiful, amazing scenery, lakes, rivers, mountains, villages, monasteries truly spectacular. It took me a long time to drive through as I was stopping to take in the beauty whenever the road allowed. Little villages dot the mountainsides high high up. So high it looks weird (iPhones can’t get good distance shots…). Some of the villages you wonder why up there??? The people that live there are either in hiding or really hate strangers!!! When I eventually got to Lake Ohrid I had to say goodbye to Jessie…
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Peja (Pec) Kosovo
The Rugova mountains were drawing me to Peja. The drive was easy on a lovely highway until it abruptly stopped with a pothole and a single lane! The drive after the highway makes you think, all along the road is memorials to fallen soldiers from the Kosovo War. Most of them, big or small have the faces of soldiers on them, makes it feel very real. When you see a headstone with a name you are more removed somehow. When I started reading up on Peja the Rugova Gorge seemed to be a must to visit but not to drive yourself. I came across numerous posts saying how dangerous the…
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Prizren, Kosovo
I jumped into Jessie (my car) and headed for the border. After negotiating so many border posts through Africa I’m always a little nervous approaching one wondering what challenges may await. Happy to say none! The Macedonia official winked at me through the drive-through window and waved me on, even though I had an entry stamp – oh well! The Kosovo side took a few minutes longer – “ah” he said “you come from Toronto” (I’m a travelling on my Canadian passport) I replied “sure” wasn’t going to open that can of worms none of my documents are from one country, I look a bit dodgy on paper… I decided…
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Skopje, Macedonia
As soon as we entered Macedonia we started winding our way down the mountain (didn’t realise we were that high up in Bulgaria) narrow winding road following a fast flowing river down into the valley. Macedonia countryside on this side is a lot starker than Bulgaria, short stubby trees like the Cape. The place I am staying in Skopje is at the top of a steep hill, didn’t mention that online! that said the walk down into town was painless and on the whole quite uninteresting until… I hit Macedonia Square – that was a bit of a surprise! After walking along another street filled with shops and restaurants I…
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Sofia, Bulgaria
Sofia, Bulgaria wasn’t part of my original route, I ended up flying here as I couldn’t find any direct flights to Macedonia or Kosovo. So, the way my brain works was simple, fly direct to a neighbouring country and work my way across – makes sense to me… Sofia is a funny town, I can’t quite put my finger on it. Very few tourists (it is May) but a long weekend in Europe. A lot of Sofia is run down with a few beautiful buildings and tree-lined roads dotted around and very confusing street signs! It has an easy, safe feel about it, everyone is going about their own business,…
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Balkans Tour
It’s finally time to hit the road again! Work commitments meant I wasn’t able to take an extended leave over Christmas so I have had to wait till now! This has had its advantages. Always taking time off at the end of the year rules quite a few places out due to snow and areas closing down for the winter. May is a perfect time to visit the Balkans, “Spring is in the air” and the tourists haven’t arrived yet. Not that tourists will be much of a problem in some of the countries and areas I will be visiting.
