The Rugova mountains were drawing me to Peja. The drive was easy on a lovely highway until it abruptly stopped with a pothole and a single lane! The drive after the highway makes you think, all along the road is memorials to fallen soldiers from the Kosovo War. Most of them, big or small have the faces of soldiers on them, makes it feel very real. When you see a headstone with a name you are more removed somehow. When I started reading up on Peja the Rugova Gorge seemed to be a must to visit but not to drive yourself. I came across numerous posts saying how dangerous the…